Banh Mi: Vietnam's Sandwich, Its Fillings and Where to Eat It

Banh mi is Vietnam's baguette sandwich: a light, crisp roll filled with pate, pork, pickled vegetables, herbs and chili, sold from street carts across the country. This guide from our Vietnam travel blog covers its history, what goes inside, the main types, how Hanoi, Hoi An and Saigon versions differ, and how to order.

The sandwich is cheap, quick and one of the first things most visitors eat in Vietnam. If you are planning a food trip, apply for a Vietnam e-visa online before you go.

Banh mi history

The story starts with the French baguette, brought to Vietnam in the colonial era. Vietnamese bakers made the loaf lighter, with a thinner crust and airier inside, better suited to the climate and local flour.

By the mid-20th century in Saigon, vendors were filling the rolls with pate, cold cuts, pickles and herbs, creating the sandwich known today. The word entered the Oxford English Dictionary in 2011, a sign of how far it has traveled. Today, neighborhood bakeries deliver fresh rolls to carts several times a day, which is why the bread is best in the morning and late afternoon.

What is in a banh mi

What is in a banh mi depends on the vendor, but the classic version layers pate and mayonnaise or butter, slices of Vietnamese pork roll (cha lua) and cold cuts, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, cilantro and fresh chili.

A splash of soy or seasoning sauce finishes it. The contrast of crisp bread, rich pate and sharp pickles is what makes it work. Look for bread that crackles when you press it, warmed over a small charcoal grill or kept in a glass cabinet. Some carts add roast pork belly, fish cake or shredded pork skin, and the herbs and chili vary from vendor to vendor, so no two sandwiches taste quite the same.

Types to try

Most stalls sell several kinds, named after the main filling, which follows the word for bread on the menu. These are common ones to try:

• Thit: the classic mixed pork roll and cold cuts.
• Op la: fried eggs, often eaten for breakfast.
• Xiu mai: pork meatballs in tomato sauce.
• Ga: shredded chicken.
• Chay: vegetarian, with tofu or mock meat.

Our Vietnamese food guide covers other street dishes.

Hanoi, Hoi An and Saigon styles

Each city makes the sandwich its own way, and debates about the best banh mi in Vietnam usually come down to these three.

Our city food guides cover them in detail, with stalls to try: Hanoi street food, Hoi An street food and Saigon street food. Two practical tips help when ordering: a few phrases and vegetarian options.

Ordering and eating

Ordering is easy: point at the fillings, and the vendor assembles it in front of you. These tips help you get it the way you want.

Useful phrases

A few words in Vietnamese help you get the sandwich the way you like it. Add these after the name of the filling.

Vegetarian versions

Many cities have vegetarian sandwich stalls using tofu, mushrooms or mock meat, and Hoi An has well-known vegetarian options. Ask for "chay" and mention if you also want no egg or fish sauce.

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